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Crafty warmth
Nestling under the duvet on a chilly winter's night with a great book,
a mug of cocoa and a hot water bottle to toast your feet … Top textile
designer Lisa Stickley shows you how to keep snug
Things you need
Medium weight cotton (I have recycled an old soft cotton curtain) for
the main body, cut to size (see template below, where each square
represents 5cm x 5cm).
4oz polyester wadding, cut 2cm smaller than the main body all the way
round (see template – cut 1 front piece and 2 back pieces).
light weight fabric (cotton calico is ideal) for the lining, cut to
the size (see template – cut 1 front piece and 2 back pieces).
1m length of bias binding (2.5cm wide)
What to do
Bond the panels and wadding
Lay the front
outer fabric piece right side down on the ironing board. Lay the front
wadding piece on top and then the front lining piece on top of that,
rather like making a sandwich. With a hot iron, press the sandwich
pile so it flattens the wadding slightly and loosely bonds the three
layers together. Repeat for the two back pieces.
Add
the bias binding
Cut two lengths of bias
binding to slightly longer than the width of the back pieces. Fold
these pieces of bias binding in half lengthwise. Slot one binding
strip onto each of the straight edges of the back pieces. Pin in
place. Stitch the bias binding in place, trapping all three layers
neatly together. Backstitch at the start and finish to fasten the seam.
Join the panels
With right sides facing, lay the top back panel on to the front panel
so the top edges line up. Then lay the bottom back panel on top of
this so the two back panels overlap in the middle and the bottom edges
of the back and front panels line up. Pin in place through all the
layers. Starting at the bottom edge, stitch all the way with a 2cm
seam allowance. For extra strength, backstitch a couple of times when
sewing over the bound edges of the top and bottom back panels.
Backstitch at the start and finish to fasten the seam.
Fill the cover with the hottie
Turn the hot-water bottle cover right side out, pushing out all the
corners. boil the kettle, fill your hot-water bottle and slip it into
the cover.
Toasty!
• Made At Home by Lisa Stickley is published by Quadrille, priced
£16.99. Buy
a copy from the Guardian Book Store.
Crafty
warmth
A crash course in shoemaking
Can a craft novice make a wearable pair of shoes, from scratch, in just one day? Rachel Dixon attends an ethical shoemaking workshop in Devon to find out "It's so stressful!" "I've got a headache from concentrating so hard!" "My hand's cramping up from gripping the knife so tightly!" We might have been a tense team of surgeons, embarked on an all-day operation. In actual fact, we were a group of women learning to make shoes. And it was exhausting. I am not the crafty type. I admire those who are, and I find their exploits inspirational - but not quite inspirational enough to have a go myself. There always seems to be something better to do (sorry, crafters). But then I was invited on a shoemaking workshop in Devon, and what, I thought, could be better than spending a relaxing day learning a new skill in a converted mill by the river Dart? Little did I know that "relaxing" would not be quite the right word. The workshops are run by Green Shoes, a Devon-based company that makes all of its shoes, sandals and boots by hand, using traditional methods and sustainable materials. The company was set up in the 1970s, but has since shed its hippy image and moved seamlessly into the design-conscious 21st century. While ethics remain at the forefront of the business, style matters more than ever - a collaboration with designer Lu Flux even led to Green Shoes walking down the catwalk at London fashion week in February. But back to the workshop. The first job for the novice shoemaker is to pick a style to recreate. This is no easy job for the footwearphile: two of us spent a good hour cooing over the shoes and trying them all on. Then there's the colour, from boring black to daring gold, or even a wacky multicoloured shoe. Then the material: leather, eco-tan leather or vegan faux-leather? Finally, the sole - to wedge, or not to wedge? I was torn between the brogue-like Teasel shoe and the crossed-lace Willow shoe, but eventually I plumped for a dark brown gladiator-style sandal in soft eco-leather. It looked stylish, comfortable and, hopefully, easy to make. Alison Hastie, the co-founder of Green Shoes, was on hand to guide us through the shoemaking process, as was Becky Marshall, a young designer/maker (all the staff are involved with every aspect of the business, unlike most shoe companies where the workers have been de-skilled). Our first job was draw out the pattern and cut out the leather pieces. This was incredibly nerve-wracking - I didn't want to make a mess and waste the precious leather - but got easier as I grew in confidence. Besides, any lumps and bumps caused by shaky hands could be snipped into shape with sharp scissors later. Then the shoemaking was underway in earnest, as we lined, glued, stitched and steamed; made holes, soles and buckles. Stamping the holes in the straps was especially satisfying, as was riveting on the buckles and pounding the last into the shoes with a hammer. We paused for lunch and the odd biscuit break, but otherwise worked solidly from 10am-6pm. And as we worked, we talked. There were a handful of women on the course (no men), from the unskilled - me - to the hardcore crafter. All abilities were catered for, with extra guidance given to those who needed it - also me. I had rather a lot of help with the big, scary sewing machine, while others merrily stitched away without a second thought. We were all there for different reasons: birthday present; charity auction prize; new challenge. As 6 o'clock struck, we put the finishing touches on our handiwork. Everyone congratulated everyone else and told each other how pleased they must be, while looking pleased as punch themselves. I couldn't believe how well my sandals had turned out. I insisted on wearing them straight away, even rolling my jeans up to better show them off. I stayed that way all evening, during drinks and dinner in Totnes, much to my boyfriend's embarrassment. That night I slept more soundly than I had in weeks, despite being in a tent on rather hard ground. I think it was the exhaustion of a difficult job well done, though it could have been the wine. In the days that followed, I willed friends to compliment me on my new shoes, so I could smugly inform them that I had made them myself. Several did, and were gratifyingly astonished. The warm glow of achievement stayed with me a long time, and I had an inkling of why so many people are part of the 'make your own' movement. I've even tried a couple of little craft projects myself, such as converting a badly fitting dress into a well-fitting skirt. But the main thing I took away from the day was a greater appreciation of traditional shoemakers. I now know what a lot of skill and hard work goes into each and every pair. The lowdownThe next shoemaking workshops will take place at Green Shoes in Buckfastleigh, Devon, on 25 September, 30 October and 20 November. A one-day course costs £175, and a two-day bootmaking course is £350. Visit greenshoes.co.uk, call 01364 644036, or email info@greenshoes.co.uk for more information. More traditional British shoemakersBill Bird Shoes
billbird.co.uk
Bespoke leather footwear for people with fitting and walking difficulties, handmade in the Cotswolds. Brodequin Shoemakers
handcraftedshoes.co.uk
Handmade leather footwear and bags, designed and made to order in Teignmouth, Devon. Conker
conkershoes.com
Handmade leather shoes made to order in Totnes, Devon. Freerangers
freerangers.com
Vegan shoes, handmade to order in the north-east of England. Galloway Footwear
clogandshoe.co.uk
Shoes and clogs made by hand in a small, family-run workshop in Scotland. James Taylor & Son
taylormadeshoes.co.uk
Handmade shoes from English oak bark-tanned leather. John Cornforth
shoemaker.org.uk
Made-to-measure, handsewn men's shoes from British and Italian leather. Phil Howard
nw-clogs.co.uk
Traditional British clogs and leatherwork, handmade in Stockport. Simple Way
simpleway.co.uk
Handmade in the north-east by a small family business. • Additional research by Niamh Griffin
A crash course in shoemaking
Cabbage can beat period pain... and other home remedies that really work
These natural remedies may have some medical credence, according to a new book by Rob Hicks, a GP and hospital doctor.
Cabbage can beat period pain... and other home remedies that really work
The remedies in the article are extracted from the following book
How to deal with mounting debt
It isn't just the Duchess of York who is struggling with debt and taking steps
to avoid bankruptcy.
How to deal with mounting debt
The war on weeds
Stop weeds wreaking havoc on your allotment, says Alys
Fowler. Some can go on the compost heap, and some make a
tasty lunch ...
The
war on weeds
How to make a zip-up purse
Turn leftover fabric into a neat little purse. It's quick, easy and
economical, says Perri Lewis
Sometimes I just want to whip something up in half an hour, rather
than slave over a project for weeks on end. So what's the best thing
to make? For me, it's those little fabric purses that you'd pay a
tenner for if you bought one from Accessorize. It puts small and
otherwise useless fabric pieces to good use, and it's a brilliant
stand-by gift for a lovely lady of any age.
You've got plenty of variations on the standard instructions all over
the interweb: this
one on the CRAFT blog has a zip on the side; this
one on Skip To My Lou is lined; and U
Handbag's tutorial has a rather neat travel card pouch on the side.
However, I reckon this method is the quickest and easiest. Using
upholstery fabric means that your purse will be sturdier and more
hardwearing than if you used cotton (although, of course, you can use
whatever non-stretchy fabric you fancy), and cutting it with pinking
shears means you don't have to worry about hemming and neat seams and
all that fiddly stuff. And if you've never had the confidence to sew
in a zip before, this is a cracking little project to start off with.
What it costs
I forked out £30 for my pinking
shears because I wanted to invest in a decent pair, but you can
pick them up for £9.99 in Argos.
A short plastic zip can be bought for about a pound if you go to a
market stall, or around £2.50 from a high-street haberdashery. I used
scraps of upholstery fabric, left over from some bunting
I made for my mum, using one
of my last tutorials. It was originally £7 a metre from John Lewis.
What you need
Upholstery fabric
Pinking shears
Zip
Iron
Pins
Sewing
machine, zipper foot and thread/needle and thread
Embellishments:
buttons, sequins etc to decorate (optional)
What to do
1. Buy a zip that is as long as you want your purse
to be wide, or a little longer (you can shorten a zip easily using this
tutorial).
2. Cut your fabric using pinking shears. You need two
pieces that are the same size. The width should be 2cm longer than the
zip, and the height 2cm longer than you want the final purse to be.
3. On one piece of fabric, fold one long side over
1cm and iron the fold in place.
4. Pin one long side of the zip to the edge you just
folded. The fabric should be about 2mm from the zip's teeth.
5. Sew the zip in place (using a zipper foot if you
have a machine, or using a strong needle and thread and a backstitch
if you don't).
6. Repeat steps three, four and five with the other
piece of fabric. When laid flat, your purse will look like a zip with
a piece of fabric sewn on either side.
7. Do the zip up. Position the purse so the right
sides of the fabric are facing. Pin them together. Make sure the tops
of the two pieces of fabric are aligned so the purse is nice and neat
when you sew it up.
8. Sew down each side of the fabric, 1cm from the
edge. Unzip the zip.
9. Sew the long bottom shut, again, 1cm from the edge.
10. Turn the purse the right way round. Use a
chopstick or pencil to poke the corners out (if they don't make a nice
right angle, chop the corner off the inside seam).
11. Decorate if you fancy (and have the time).
• Perri blogs about making stuff at makeanddowithperri.wordpress.com.
How
to make a zip-up purse
Make your own table linen
Appliqué is an easy way to completely transform a plain, vintage
tablecloth into something contemporary and stylish
Appliqué is an easy way to completely transform a plain, vintage
tablecloth into something contemporary and stylish, and at the same
time cover up any stains! You could also use a vintage linen or heavy
cotton sheet – I used an embroidered Swiss cotton sheet which was in
perfect condition and wonderfully heavy. If you want to start with new
fabric, organic cotton sheeting is ideal – it is extra wide,
2.85m/112in., so you can easily buy a piece big enough for even the
largest dining table.
What you need
A hand sewing kit
Safety pins
Items to use as circle templates –
plates, jars, CDs
Large piece of organic cotton, vintage tablecloth
or vintage sheet
Scraps of medium-weight, washable fabrics which
don't fray too much
Embroidery threads
Note: You may prefer to iron lightweight interfacing
onto the fabric scraps before cutting them out. It stops the fabrics
from fraying and wrinkling
How to make it
1. Pre-wash the base fabric and all the scraps you
use for this project as you don't want colours running in the wash.
Also use a dye grabber when you wash, to catch any excess. Wash and
iron the tablecloth/sheet/fabric. Mark any stains with safety pins so
you can easily find them to cover with appliqué. If you are using new
fabric, cut to the required size and hem all the edges.
2. Cut circles from medium-weight fabrics in a range
of different sizes, from 6-20cm/21/2-8in. I used about 60 for this
project. Spread out the cloth and pin the circles in a nice
arrangement over the cloth, covering any stains if necessary. Pin in
place, again using safety pins.
3. Starting at one side of the cloth, sew the circles
down. Sew around the edges of each circle using either slipstitch
(a) or blanket
stitch (b). Slipstitch is much faster, so it depends how long you
are prepared to work on the tablecloth! Tack or use more pins if
required and smooth out each circle to ensure it doesn't wrinkle as
you sew. Press when all the appliqués are attached.
It is quick and easy to make vintage linen napkins to match by sewing
just a few small circles onto one corner of each napkin.
• Buy
Sew Eco: Sewing Sustainable and Re-Used Materials at the Guardian
bookshop
Make
your own table linen
How To Upholster A Cheap Chair
Reupholstery and a little TLC can transform a cheap chair into a
statement piece of furniture. In this extract from Revive!, a new book
on recycled interiors, Jacqueline Mulvaney shows you how
Try working with a piece of furniture that you find at an auction
house or junk shop. When I talk about furniture picked up at auction,
I'm not talking antiques. Consult your telephone directory to find a
saleroom in a small town rather than one in a big city, which can be a
lot pricier. Most sales have preview days, and it's worth having a
browse and looking closely at any pieces that catch your eye.
Check for basic soundness: is it fit for purpose, is it riddled with
woodworm, is it more trouble than it's worth?
I have found a wooden-framed chair with a back and seat that need
replacing. The chair is a lovely shape and will work well with my
other furniture. It's not an old piece, cost just £8, and as it only
needs stripping and small areas of fabric replacing it's perfect in
terms of time.
Obviously, if you are feeling brave and have the time you might well
want to try something more ambitious. If you decide to use a chair,
try to find a chair with a removable seat.
What you need
Old chair
Paint stripper
Mask
Rubber gloves
Furniture wax
or limewax
Fabric
Tracing paper or pattern paper
Pencil
Scissors
Upholstery
tacks
Ribbon
Sewing machine
Embroidery thread
Textile or
craft adhesive
Pins
Staple gun (optional)
What to do: Stripping and cleaning
Before I strip and clean the chair I'm going to remove the pieces of
fabric so I can use them as patterns. The chair has been coated with a
thick, dark varnish and is generally a bit grubby. I'm using a product
called Nitromors,
which is a powerful paint stripper. If you are going to use a
substance such as this you need to work outside or with very good
ventilation. Wear a mask and rubber gloves, keep it away from pets and
children and try not to splash it on your skin. Just follow the
instructions and you'll be fine.
I'm going to wax my chair once I've finished removing the old varnish;
this will bring out the grain and protect the wood. You can also
limewax your piece; this will stain your furniture slightly and give
it a chalky appearance. Limewax can be purchased from most good DIY
stores or picture framers.
Upholstery
Try to use the existing upholstery as patterns for your new cover.
Think about the type of fabric you are going to choose. I want this
chair to be functional rather than merely decorative, so delicate
fabrics won't work. As the areas to be recovered aren't huge I'm going
to treat myself and buy some fabric. This is cheating, I know, but the
website I'm going to use to source my fabric specialises in
reclaimed fabrics. It's run by a lady called Donna Flower who is
incredibly knowledgable, her website is a pleasure to use and she is
constantly adding new fabrics. As I only need a metre of fabric and
the chair was so cheap I think I can justify this little diversion.
Patterns
Using tracing paper or pattern paper make yourself a pattern. Cut out
your shapes from your selected fabric. I need to ensure that I cut
sufficient material to allow me to pull it taut over the chair frame,
but I don't need to hem the fabric because any uneven edges will be
hidden by the trim.
My next step is to replace the seat cover and back of my chair.
Starting with the chair back I am going to secure the fabric with
upholstery tacks. As the tacks are visible I'm going to create a trim
to cover this edge.
Trim
Taking a bundle of ribbon, I'm going to join a variety of lengths and
widths to make enough to fit around the fabric on the back.
When you have the desired length of trim, set your sewing machine to
embroidery mode. Using contrasting machine embroidery thread, stitch a
trailing motif along the length of your ribbon. Don't feel you have to
use an embroidery hoop for this; any distortion created through
stitching will add rather than detract from your final trim. Using a
good quality textile or craft adhesive, stick your finished trim in
place. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly.
Fitting the seat cover requires the fabric to be stretched tightly
across the pad making certain that the corners are neat. If the seat
is removable, then take it out first. Pin the fabric in place as you
work before tacking the fabric in place on the underside. The new seat
can now be replaced. If you want to you can use a staple gun to secure
the new fabric to the base. It's sometimes easier to get a tighter,
more professional finish if you staple rather than tack. You should
now have a unique piece of furniture which is both useful and lovely.
• Revive! Inspired Interiors from Recycled Materials is published
on 10 May
How
to reupholster a cheap chair
Tea Cosy Craft
Brighten up the breakfast table with a handcrafted tea cosy. Top
textile designer Lisa Stickley shows you how
Tea, cake and a little Herbie Hancock on the radio in the background
are all particular favourites of mine. This is a nice easy project to
ensure that your tea will be steamy hot even after the cake is gone!
What you need
1 sheet of paper or newspaper, A3 or larger
2 semicircular pieces of mediumweight cotton for main body (I have
used a damask)
2 semi-circular pieces of lightweight cotton for lining
1 rectangular piece of cotton for loop, 4cm x 10cm or thereabouts
2 semi-circular pieces of 4oz polyester wadding for insulation
What to do
Click
here to download some helpful illustrations (pdf)
Step one: Cut out the pieces
To make sure the cosy fits, lay your teapot on its side on to a large
piece of paper. Draw a semicircle around the teapot, adding an extra
5cm on all sides to make the pattern for the main body and lining. To
cut out an even shape, fold the semi-circle down the centre lengthwise
and use the best drawn line as the cutting guide. Using this paper
pattern, cut out the fabric for the main body and lining. Cut the
wadding 4cm smaller than the template all the way round.
Step two: Make the loop
Fold a 1cm hem on each long side of the fabric piece and press. Fold
the fabric down the middle lengthwise so the two turned edges meet.
Press and pin. Stitch along the open side, stitching as close to the
edge as possible for a neat finish. Backstitch at the start and finish
to fasten the seam. Stitch the same line along the opposite side to
finish the loop.
Step three: Make the main body
Place the two main body pieces right sides together. Fold the prepared
loop in half and sandwich it between the two main body pieces at the
centre top, with the raw edges of the loop in line with the raw edges
of the main body. Pin in place. Pin the two body pieces together along
the curved edge. Stitch together with a 5mm seam allowance, catching
the loop into the seam as you sew. Fold a 1cm hem over to the wrong
side around the base and press, but don't stitch this just yet. Turn
the tea cosy right side out.
Step four: Make the lining
Place the two lining pieces right sides together. Pin in place along
the curved edge. Stitch together with a 5mm seam allowance. Press.
Fold a 2cm hem over to the wrong side around the base and press, but
don't stitch this just yet.
Step five: Finish the tea cosy
With wrong sides together, slot the lining inside the main body. On
each side sandwich a cut piece of wadding in between the main body and
lining and flatten into place. Pin the base of the main body to the
lining, making sure the pressed hem is neatly lined up and any stray
bits of wadding are tucked in. Stitch the base together all the way
around, stitching as close to the edge of the hem as possible for a
neat finish.
Put the kettle on for a cup of tea, and I recommend a generous slice
of angel cake!
• Made At Home by Lisa Stickley is published by Quadrille, priced
£16.99. Buy
a copy from the Guardian Book Store.
Tea
cosy craft
How to embellish an outfit on the cheap.
Embellishment is bang
on trend right now. Work the style on a budget by making your own
bows and roses, with a little help from Perri Lewis
There are some things that I assume everyone can make given a needle
and thread and a spare 15 minutes. Not so, it seems. Simple bows
allude even the most handy of my friends, and as for fabric roses (you
know the ones I mean - a quick rummage around the high street and
you'll find plenty stuck on brooches, hair bands and all manner of
accessories) - I know far too many people who have forked out far too
much for them to spruce up an outfit when they could have just whipped
one up for themselves.
So if you'd rather save a few pennies for ice-creams this summer,
master these two basics and you can play around embellishing
everything from bags to bikinis with just a few scraps of fabric. And
if you're an old hand at all this, what other simple projects would
you suggest for beginners who want to renovate their summer wardrobes?
How to make a basic bow
What you need
Small piece of fabric
Pins
A needle and thread
Clip/brooch
back (optional)
Adhesive (for use on fabric and metal, optional)
What to do
1. Cut a long strip of fabric twice as wide and twice
and tall as you want the final bow to be.
2. With the fabric right side down, fold the long top
edge in to the middle. Pin it in place.
3. Fold the long bottom edge in to the middle. Pin it
in place.
4. Fold one of the short edges in to the middle. Pin
it in place.
5. Fold the other short edge in to the middle. Pin in
place again.
6. Thread a needle with two strands of thread and sew
two lines of running stitches. If you want a super-large bow, you may
need to use two strands of thread rather than one.
7. Pull one end of the threads to gather.
8. Tie a knot in the end to keep the fabric gathered
in place.
9. To make the middle, cut a small strip of fabric.
Fold one long edge in to the middle (as in step two), then fold the
other edge up to meet it. Iron to keep the fold in place. Wrap this
around the centre of your bow and stitch in place.
Optional extra: Rose clip/brooch
I sewed my bow on to a clip, or you could glue it on with an adhesive
that will stick both fabric and metal. You can do the same with a
brooch back to make a brooch.
How to make a simple rose
What you need
Small piece of fabric
Pins
A needle and thread
Netting
(optional)
Hair band (optional)
What to do
1. Cut a long strip of fabric - the longer the piece,
the fuller the rose will be.
2. Fold the fabric in half lengthways. Pin in place.
3. Sew a running stitch along the bottom edge of the
strip. As with the bow, for a big rose, use two strands of thread.
4. Gather the fabric up in sections along the strip
(this will make the rose look better in the end).
5. Wrap this strip around and around itself to create
the rose, either stitching the layers together as you go, or once
you're happy with the result.
Optional extra: Rose headband
Before I wrapped the rose up (step five), I cut a piece of netting
that was the same size and sewed it on to the strip. I then wrapped it
up, sewing after I was happy with the shape, and added an extra piece
of netting on the bottom to cover my messy stitches. I sewed this on
to a gold hair band I found in Asda for a rather tasty
three-for-a-pound.
• Perri writes about making stuff at makeanddowithperri.wordpress.com
How
to embellish an outfit on the cheap
How to make slippers from jeans
If your favourite jeans have seen better days, turn them into some
stylish slippers. The doyenne of denim, Nancy Minsky, shows you how
I am the Jean Girl - I patch, mend and refashion denim in all kinds of
special ways. Handcrafting old jeans, with style and imagination, can
give your wardrobe a burst of fresh fashion without the designer
expense.
The appealingly soft textures and faded colours of worn denim make it
the perfect fabric to sew into "new" things. So yank those
long-forgotten jeans out from the back of your closet and discover
what you can create!
If you have intermediate sewing skills then you can easily stitch
yourself a pair of proper denim slippers. When you're finished, slip
your feet into these soft, soothing slippers and pad around your home
feeling lovely and comfy. Or just put your feet up and glow with
satisfaction while you gaze at your resourceful - and chic - handiwork.
What you need
Pair of old, cast-off jeans
25cm wadding
25cm iron-on fusing
Piece
of thin cardboard (not the corrugated type), about 30x30cm
Two
pattern pieces
Around 60cm ribbon (I've used pink and white
gingham)
Blue thread (choose a shade that matches your denim)
Scissors
Straight
pins
Pencil/tailor's chalk
Needle and thread/sewing machine
What to do
Step one: Prepare the pattern
• Print
out the pattern pieces and enlarge to the right size. To check the
size, stand barefoot on the sole pattern. The edge of the pattern
should extend about 2cm beyond your foot.
Step two: Cut the denim
• Cut the legs off your jeans and cut them open along the inside seam.
Lay them flat on the table.
• Using the pattern, cut one sole
piece and one upper piece from one of the legs. Worn denim has many
colour variations. Use your favorite shades of blue, especially for
the top upper, which will be the most visible. Draw on the stitching
lines using a pencil or tailor's chalk. Turn the paper pattern over,
then cut one more of each piece from the same leg. Mark with pencil or
tailor's chalk as before.
• Repeat this last step using the other jean leg. You'll now have
eight pieces of denim. For a more professional look, cut the pieces so
that your left and right slippers are a good colour match.
Step three: Cut the other pattern pieces
• Using the paper patterns, cut two pieces of the sole and two pieces
of the upper out of the wadding.
• Again, using the paper patterns, cut the same four pieces out of the
iron-on fusing.
• Using just the sole pattern, cut two pieces from the cardboard.
These now need to be trimmed, so they are 1.5cm smaller than the
pattern all the way around.
• Now to get organised: put all your left pieces into one pile and all
the right pieces into another pile.
Step 4: Sew the upper
• Start with the left upper. Place the left denim upper piece on to a
flat surface, right side down. Following instructions on the fusing
packet, iron it to the wrong side of this denim piece.
• Take the wadding and sandwich it between the two denim pieces - the
right side of the denim pieces should face out. Pin these three pieces
together.
• Temporarily sew these pieces together using long, easily-removable
stitches (this is called "basting").
Remove the pins, then stitch all around the perimeter, 1.5cm from the
edge, as marked in figure A.
• Sew a running stitch (red thread in figure A) on the toe, as marked
on the pattern (later it will be pulled to form gathers.)
• Repeat all of this with the right upper.
Step five: Prepare the sole
• Start with the left sole. Place the left denim sole piece on to a
flat surface, right side down. Following instructions on the fusing
packet, iron it to the wrong side of this denim piece.
• Stitch a running stitch on the toes of both denim sole pieces as
marked on the pattern and figure B (later they will be pulled to form
gathers.)
Step six: Sew the upper to the sole
• This step is rather cumbersome, but don't despair - it all works out
and in the end you'll have a durable and comfortable slipper.
• Start with the left slipper. Lay the wadding on the table and align
the denim sole on top (the upper one), right side facing up.
• Align the upper on top, right side facing up, as noted with blue
thread in figure C. Pin and baste together.
• Align the other denim sole on top, with the fusing facing up.
• Pin, baste (those temporary stitches), remove pins and stitch around
the 1.5cm seam allowance, as marked in figure D. Back stitch and knot
thread ends.
• Remove the basting, and clip and trim the seam allowance.
• Turn the sole right-side out, wiggling it through the toe.
• Take something long (I used a chopstick, but the end of a pencil or
even a pair of scissors will also work well), slip it inside, and
nudge the seam into a nice smooth edge.
• Slide the cardboard inside, between the lower sole and the wadding.
If it's a squeeze to slip the cardboard inside, fold it a bit. Don't
worry, it will flatten out and will still be supportive.
• Repeat with the right sole.
Step seven: Finish the toe
• Starting with the left foot, pull the running stitches you added
earlier on the sole so it curls naturally around the cardboard toe.
Knot the ends of the thread so that it stays in place.
• Pull the running stitches on the upper so it matches the shape of
sole.
• Tuck the seam allowance inside the toe and hand-stitch the toe
closed with little neat backstitches.
• Repeat with the right foot.
Step eight: Adorn your slippers
• Cut the ribbon into four pieces of equal length.
• Pin two pieces on the left slipper front, about 6.5cm apart with a
1.5cm fold back. Hand-stitch in place along the folded edge, following
figure E.
• Tie into a snug bow.
• Cut the ribbon ends at a diagonal.
• Repeat with the right slipper.
• Knot all threads securely.
• Alternatively, adorn them with feathers and beads, pretty buttons,
different fabric mixes or fabric flowers. Search through your sewing
basket to find the right combination that reflects your personal style.
More information
Visit Nancy's website
where you can find her blogs, 21centurydressmakers
and jeanrepair; read
about her eco-chic
DIY book filled with denim clothes and accessories; and download
her fabulous monthly fashion screensavers.
How
to make slippers from jeans
Tea Towel Watch.
Trendy tea towels are wasted on the dishes. Product designer Andy
Murray explains how to turn one into a watch instead
Everyone has tea towels in the kitchen drawer, perhaps from a holiday
in Spain, a wet weekend visit to a castle, or even a stylish
present from a design-conscious friend. Some tea towels are so
quirky, or such good quality, that it's a shame to hide them away.
I've made a collection of handmade, personal items from tea towels,
including bags, wallets and belts. The instructions below explain how
to make a watch - I hope you're inspired to give it a go!
What you need
An old but working watch face
A tea towel with a hem around the
edges
Sharp scissors
Pen or pencil
A 30cm ruler
Fabric glue
Clothes
pegs
Popper studs (from a good craft shop)
Getting started
Set all the things you are going to need on a large flat surface, such
as the kitchen table. Lay out the tea towel face down, making sure
there are no creases.
Step one
• Measure the watch pin.
• Measure the watch face.
•
Decide how wide you want the strap. It's up to you, as long as it's
the same size or bigger than the pins.
• Mark out on the tea towel
the width of strap you want, three times, adding a 1cm hem around each
edge.
• Measure your wrist, then make the strap 5cm longer.
Step two
• Draw out the strap on the tea towel. Draw it three times, as it's
going to be folded over three times for strength.
• Add a 1cm hem
to the edges if there are not any on the original tea towel.
Step three
• Glue along the long hem on all necessary edges.
• Fold 1cm hems towards the centre.
Step four
• Glue along the top edge.
• Fold along line the top dotted
line (see picture, left).
• Glue along the bottom edge, fold along
the lower dotted line, so the top and bottom edge meet.
• Hold in
place with clothes pegs and leave to dry.
Step five
• Mark out the watch face holder.
• The width is 4mm smaller
than the watch pins.
• Cut out double this width, as it's going to
be folded over.
• The length is about 10cm, but alter if needed.
Step six
• Glue along the edges, folding towards the centre.
• Make
sure the width is still smaller than the pins.
• Glue and fold 1cm
of each edge.
• Leave to dry, holding in place with clothes pegs.
Step seven
• Position the watch face in the place you would like it on the face
holder (with the tea towel pattern facing the same way as the watch
face).
• Attach the face, clipping the pins in place.
Step eight
• Glue the face holder in the centre of the strap.
• Hold in place with clothes pegs and leave to dry.
Step nine
• Using pop studs, glue them in a position that fits your wrist.
• To make it more secure, try sewing the studs on, or try different
ways of fixing.
Step 10
• Leave to dry before wearing.
• Ensure fasteners are
attached before wearing to ensure the watch doesn't fall off.
Why not try ...?
• Using different sections of the tea towels to create interesting
straps.
• Finding unique tea towels to make your watch more
personal.
• Stitching parts on to add detail.
• Using
different fastening methods.
More tea towel projects can be found in Andy's book, Made by,
£8.95 at designedbyandy.com.
Find more of Andy's design work at andymurraydesign.com.
Crafty
chap
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